Dries Van Noten Steps Down From Fashion Label

One of the world’s most beloved fashion figures announced Tuesday that he’s stepping down from his eponymous brand. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, 65, made the announcement in a letter sent to friends of the label.

“In the early 80’s, as a young guy in Antwerp, my dream was to have a voice in fashion,” Van Noten wrote. “Through a journey that brought me to London, Paris … that dream has come true. Now I want to shift my focus to all the things I never had time for.” This means his exceptionally well-reviewed fall 2024 women’s collection, shown in Paris weeks ago, will be his last. His fall menswear show in June 2024 is his official finale.

The uniquely Dries look — dubbed “audacious everyday” by WWD — combined Boho flowy fits with avant-garde prints. Singularly stylish Cate Blanchett donned Dries on the carpet many times. As did Maggie Gyllenhaal, including at the 2010 Oscars, and Florence Pugh, fervently posing up a storm in a ruffled Dries fuchsia gown to the 2020 BAFTAs. Nicole Kidman, Margot Robbie, Michelle Obama, Carey Mulligan and Anna Wintour have all had memorable Dries moments. Kirsten Dunst recently donated a watercolor print for a charity event.

Van Noten grew up in Antwerp, attending the prestigious Antwerp Royal Academy. He began menswear in 1986, founding his women’s line in 1988, owning his brand independently for three decades — rare for any designer, particularly one enamored of detailed florals and embroidery. Six years ago, a majority stake was acquired by Spanish giant Puig, owner of Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier and Charlotte Tilbury cosmetics.

A 2014 major Paris retrospective at the Musée des Art Décoratif matched Dries’ detailed clothing with the books, music and works of art that inspired each. When well-wishers descended, the shy soft-spoken Dries whispered, dashing out a back entrance: “I’m just too shy for these accolades.”

While Van Noten will no longer be the creative director of the house, he will continue to be involved in an unspecific role.

“Seeing our clothes out in the world,” he signed the heartfelt goodbye letter, “has fulfilled me beyond words.” No doubt, that pastel-chocked fall women’s collection will be pumped up when it hits the stores this summer.